Tuesday, 8 September 2015

Norway

I am very fortunate and thankful to have had the opportunity to travel to Norway with my grandfather via a cruise. I have always wanted to visit Norway as part of my heritage hails from Norway and have grown up hearing of Norwegian ways and traditions from "Uffda" to lefsa to geitost! We sailed from Harwich, England on a 7 day cruise of the Norwegian Fjords, stopping in Bergen, Geiranger, Alesund, and Eidfjord. 

Norway

The name Norway means "path to the north".


Norway has had an interesting history from the era of the Vikings to kings and unions with neighbor countries. The country is perhaps known best for being the motherland to some of the most notorious Vikings that raided and settled many countries from England, Scotland, Ireland, to as far south as Spain! It's also said that the royal line is descendant from William the Conqueror who invaded England in 1066! Imagine the Queen of England, a viking! 

After the Vikings, for a time (nearly 500 years), Norway was under the rule of Denmark until 1814. After the Napoleonic War, Denmark siding with Napoleon and Sweden siding with Britain, Sweden came out on the side of victory, decided it wanted Norway. To the victor goes the spoils of war! Norway went with Sweden, but only after the Norwegians drafted a constitution to be upheld by the Swedes. Norway remained part of Sweden until 1905 when it broke off to become its own country.

Between the late 1800s and early 1900s, Norway lost about 1/3 of it's population due to migration to the US and Canada! It is estimated that almost the same number of Norwegians live in the U.S. as there are in Norway (and mostly the northern areas such as Michigan and Minnesota). Norway has also become a very rich country since 1969 when oil was discovered and is one of the leading exports of oil, especially to the UK and European countries.

Other facts

Language: Norwegian

Capital: Norway has had three capitals, Trondheim, Bergen, and finally Oslo.

Population: approx. 5.5 million people (total population).

Unemployment rate: about 4%

Currency is the Krone (NOK).

Religion: Christianity/Lutheran, but some of the natives believe in the magic of Trolls!

Scandinavian countries include: Norway, Denmark, and Sweden

Nordic countries include the Scandinavian countries plus Finland and Iceland

Bergen

"Ha en flott dag i Bergen"- Norwegian for have a wonderful day in Bergen

Bergen is the 2nd largest city in Norway with approx. 285,000 people. The Oslo metro area is the first with approx. 1 million (approx 650,000 in just Oslo)! I was imagining all the stops to be small fishing villages, but Bergen was a rather large city! We took a bus tour of Bergen and got to hear lots of great information, facts, and tales about Bergen (and Norway in general). Did you know it rains an average of 260 days per year and accumulates about 3,000 millimeters of rain!

Bergen is the home of a famous composer and pianist in the late 1800s, Edvard Grieg.

There's a monument in remembrance of nearly 400 "witches" that were burned during Norway's own witch trials!

In WWII, Norway was occupied by the Germans when a fishing vessel confiscated by the Germans arrived in Bergen carrying a vast amount of explosives. It is said, resistance to the Germans decided to blow the ship and prevent it from reaching Germany (on Hilter's birthday, no less!). They were successful in blowing up the ship; however, the tidal wave that resulted leveled many of the houses and shops near the harbor and led to some fires spreading and destroying others.

After our bus tour, we rode the funicular (a vertical train) to the top Mt. Fløien for a panoramic view of Bergen. Mt. Fløien is 1,200ft. above sea level and offers some pretty amazing views. We then walked around the Bergen fish market before heading back to the ship.








photo credit: JAB


Geiranger

Unfortunately, I was sick the day we were to go ashore to Geiranger so there is not much information that I can offer on the town. However, it is known for its fjord and waterfalls De Syv Søstre, better known as the Seven Sisters. The Eagle Road in steepest stretch of road up the mountain side. My grandfather took a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) cruise and got up close to the Seven Sisters waterfall and another known as the Bridal Veil.

I am sad I missed some spectacular scenery, but the day did not spoil the trip and the very next day, I was all set and excited for our next port.

photo credit: JAB

photo credit: JAB

photo credit: JAB

photo credit: JAB


Alesund

Known as the answer to Italy's Venice, and one of Norway's most important fishing harbor, Alesund is a quaint city on the sea surrounded by small fishing villages on various islands. Rather than building numerous bridges, tunnels run under the water, some that are 200 meters below. We took a bus tour through Alesund as well as the Islands of Giske and Godøy, the little fishing village of Alnes, and up to Mount Aksla

The Island of Giske has a population of approximately 400 people! The Giske Chapel, partially built of white marble (also known as the Marble Church) was declared a pilgrimage by the Pope Clement around 1345. Crosses are etched into the east wall that visitors were to kiss in turn receiving penance. It is unknown when the church was actually built, but was documented in writings around the 1300s.

On the Island of Godøy, there is a mountain peak that up until 1640, was used to carry out death sentences. If sentenced to death, the person would be taken to the top and pushed! There is also a very nice looking lighthouse as well.

From the town center, one can climb 418 steps to the top of Mount Aksla, or one can drive up on a road built during WWII by Polish and Russian POWs. Amazing views are to be had of Alesund and the surrounding villages. On the drive up, there are still old WWII bunkers scattered along the road.








Eidfjord

Eidfjord welcomes close to 500,000 visitors each year though only approximately 900 people reside in the city. In my opinion, Eidfjord was the most spectacular port. We got up early and spent nearly two hours snapping pictures of our journey into the Hardanger fjord before docking at the small village. The scenery is spectacular and pictures and words would not do the gorgeous views the justice they deserve.

We took a drive through the Måbødalen Valley (and many tunnels blasted through the mountain rock) to see the Hardanger Mountain Plateau, stopping to see the spectacular Vøringsfossen Waterfall and the Sysen Dam. The Vøringsfossen Waterfall towers 597 feet from the top. The drive, for the most part, ran alongside a river stemming from the waterfall and controlled by the dam. There were so many picturesque views from the splendid nature to the farmlands and homes. From the dam, on a clear day, one can see a great glacier, the Hardangerjøkulen Glacier. Unfortunately, there were quite a many clouds that blocked our view, but I still don't believe the view to be less than mesmerizing!

Some of the houses still utilize sod roof which is a typical Scandinavian roof comprised of sod on top of layers of birch bark. Birch bark is very watertight. It's like a garden on the roof tops. I can just imagine someone talking to their husband, "Honey, the roof needs to be mowed! Please be careful, wouldn't want you breaking your other leg, or mowing over yourself over again!"











Norway is very steeped in tradition; very unspoiled in my opinion, and a true hidden gem from the world! I think I could live on a remote island only accessible by boat... While I do not think I would be able to handle the cold, the scenery would be worth moving for, or at least vacationing!


"God natt"- Goodnight











Monday, 27 July 2015

Warwick Castle

Warwick Castle

The site of Warwick Castle was first laid out by Ethelfleda, a woman warrior in 914, but was overtaken by William the Conqueror in 1068. William commissioned the beginnings of Warwick castle. Warwick castle was used as a stronghold until the earliest 17th Century when it was given to Fulke Greville by King James I as a gesture of friendship in 1604. It is said that King James wasn't well liked so he gave the castle to fortify Sir Greville's support.

The Greville family lived in Warwick Castle, gaining Earldom in 1759, until 1978 when it was sold due to the financial ruin of the Grevilles. The Grevilles were particularly known for their grand and expensive parties. Fulke Grenville spent approximately 20,000 pounds restoring the castle in his time. However, more emphasis was spending money on parties rather than the property.

In 1871, the castle caught fire in the main living apartments and reaching the great hall (the first room upon entering Warwick). The Grenvilles didn't have the money to pay for the repairs so they asked for donations from wealthier families and raised a pretty substantial sum. Instead of putting the money towards repairs, the Grenvilles had a week long party. Repairs, however, were completed slowly... and cheaply. Luckily for the Grenvilles, the Medieval period was popular so they were able to simplify the repairs and save money on decor by displaying their collection of Medieval weapons.

In Green Drawing Room, or the men's room, portraits cover the wall and are all just about the same size. On one side of the fire place, King Charles I hangs and on the other, his wife, Henrietta. While it may not seem strange, the two portraits in the same room, next to each other, it is! The two portraits, at one time, had been part of a single picture! The Grenvilles were so cheap as to cut already owned artwork down to size. Luckily, the pictures are not originals, but prints. There was even a room that was made up ONLY for the reigning King and/or Queen to stay.

Legend has it, Queen Anne was preparing to visit and sent her travel bed and furniture. The Grenvilles, of course, prepared a lavish party in honor of the queen. However, shortly before the expected arrival, the queen's servants returned to retrieve the queens travel things. The Grenvilles, out of anger locked the room and would not allow the queen's belongings to be removed. They believed it to be their compensation for the expenses they had incurred in the queen's honor. Or at least that's how the story goes. It wasn't until a few years that historians found out that the Grenvilles had FABRICATED the whole story.

However, unbeknownst to the Grenvilles, they unintentionally purchased what is now believed to be that Queen Anne's death bed! If only they had known, they would have had an even better story to tell their guests!

Unfortunately, when I visited Warwick Castle, it was rainy and slightly chilly. Most of the outdoor activities had been cancelled. Warwick did attempt the Birds of Prey exhibit, and for the weather conditions, I think the animals behaved pretty well. The grounds surrounding Warwick are beautiful, especially the Peacock gardens. The garden had many live peacocks roaming, and some were even in the trees!
















UPDATE!!! MARCH 2016 UPDATE!!!

So, I returned to Warwick castle which proved to be just as good the second time as the first. What's more, I was able to see more of the shows, the bowman and the trebuchet. Both shows were great entertainment! I highly recommend taking the guided tour through the house and visiting the Time Tower. Again, the day was somewhat rainy, but not enough to ruin the shows. 







Sunday, 12 July 2015

Stonehenge and Windsor Castle

I had a short visit back to to states which was great seeing family and friends! Had a wonderful time, but now I'm back in England and ready for adventures! I have a couple lined up so maybe I'll do better about posting more blogs!

Anyways, my first adventure was visiting Stonehenge and Windsor Castle. I got up SUPER early, or rather, I didn't even go to bed! My trip to Stonehenge started at 12am in order to get to experience the Inner Circle at sunrise, well shortly after. We arrived about 5:30am, all bright eyed and bushy-tailed, or as bright eyed as one can be at 5:30 in the A.M. Well, if we weren't awake, we certainly were when we exited the vehicle and the cool morning breeze hit, 54 degree! And here I dressed for the 90 degree weather we had just the day before..

Nevertheless, we were shuttled to the sacred rocks, and when we disembarked, we saw... NOTHING! The morning was typical of England weather, the good kind that I enjoy, a beautiful morning blanketed in dew; that light dew that just hovers over the ground and the early light just bounces off before burning it off. Now imagine that and being at Stonehenge, it just made the place look fantastical and even more mysterious.

As we started walking up the pathway to the stones, anticipation was building until we were close enough to see the stones through the fog. I, personally, thought the site was breathtaking. Maybe it's that Stonehenge is so well known you're in awe at finally being at one of the greatest wonders of the world, or maybe it was because I was on a private tour, and not subjected to being surrounded by thousands of visitors during the normal hours.

I didn't witness any druids, time travel gaps, Dr. Who, or any human sacrifices to my dismay, but I was able to get some pretty neat pictures. But first, some information on Stonehenge:

Stonehenge is estimated to be from about 3100 B.C. from the Neolithic era and consists of three different types of stones: Bluestone, Sarsen, and Welsh Sandstone. Construction is believed to have happened in three different phases and is estimated to have required the work of more than 30,000,000 labor hours! Stonehenge is not the only henge, yes, there are many more henge earthworks nearby. Speculation as to why Stonehenge and others were built range from human sacrifice to astronomy.

For some more history, check out these podcasts (you can get podcast on the Iphone, I highly recommend the following subscriptions, though I like the Stuff You Should Know best):

Stuff You Should Know: http://www.stuffyoushouldknow.com/podcasts/how-stonehenge-works/
Stuff You Missed in History Class: http://www.missedinhistory.com/podcasts/unearthed-stonehenge/











After our visit to Stonehenge, we stopped on our way home at Windsor Castle. 

Windsor Castle is the oldest and largest inhabited castle in the world and has been the home of British Kings an Queens for nearly 1000 years!Windsor is still a working palace and is used for ceremonial occasions as well as hosting important foreign figures. 

William the Conqueror chose the sight of Windsor and began construction 1070 A.D. which was completed 16 years later. In 1100s Henry I, II, and III made substantial changes by adding on two sets of royal apartments as well as began replacing the outer timber fortifications with stone. The original Norman keep was rebuilt around 1170 as the Round Tower and a chapel was added. 

Edward III spent more than any other king, some £50,000 in the 1300s converting the castle to gothic. Queen Elizabeth I oversaw the major improvements of repair in the 1550s, and in 1660s, Charles II modernized the apartments to the become grandest apartments in England (probably didn't have much competition). George the IV added to the Round Tower as well as constructed the Waterloo Chamber in celebration of the defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte around the 1820s. Recently, in 1992, a fire broke out in the Queen Victoria's private chapel and restorations were completed exactly 5 years after the fire. 

I was a little disappointed with the tour, NOT the castle. The grounds were beautiful and spectacular and all the historical undertakings have been carefully preserved. You can see the different improvements and additions as you wonder about. What I was disappointed about was that there wasn't anyone giving out this information, and I'm not overly fond of the audio headsets, maybe this information was on the audio recordings. I was also disappointed that the personnel on site was mainly concerned with moving people along, herding us like cattle through the inside staterooms (which are spectacular). There were so many people, I understand the need for constant movement, but it made it difficult to take everything in and you couldn't always stop and look at something because either people were crowded around the object or they were shoving you along. 

The Queen's Ball Room was by far my favorite and most exquisite! Chandeliers made of gold, gold foil (or maybe real gold) lining the walls. It was just beautiful. I wish I could have taken pictures, but they were not allowed :( The castle and grounds outside were very nice though. What was once the moat is now gardens. We also got to see the changing of the guard which was neat, but rather lengthy process. 













Sunday, 24 May 2015

Across the Pond

This blog has been a work-in-progress; a collection of various differences between living in the US and living in the UK. Now, I'm not saying one is better than the other, because there are things I like about both. I'm simply just trying to describe our journey, thus far. I'll try to arrange things in categories, but please forgive any chaos or disorganized ramblings! I thought it would be easy transitioning to a country that wasn't completely different in all things, and it hasn't been that difficult, but there are somethings that all those movies and books just can't prepare you for.

Language

Yes, we, like the Brits speak English; however, there is English and there's American. English here can sometimes deviate far from the English used in the states (as does their spelling). For example, when asking "How are you doing" as we say in American, the Brits tend to use the phrase "Are you alright". Also, just about every town has a city centre, and yes, that's spelt centre (not center or spelled as we would in the states).

At first, upon hearing the phrase "are you alright", I thought something was seriously wrong with me, like I had something on my face, looked sick (was I sick?), or maybe I was lost, even though I was pretty sure I was where I was wanting to go. I'm sure I looked confused after that question though, and had to contemplate if I was actually alright. Once I figured out the meaning behind the question, I felt a little silly, but if you know me, I thought they had probably witnessed me tripping over my own feet, almost walking into a door, or something revealing my clumsy nature.

Some other communication problems are how words are translated. For example, if you want french fries, in the UK you have to ask for chips. Well now, that's confusing. How is the person taking your food order going to know that when you say chips it's referring to french fries instead of potato chips to go along with your sandwich (or as the UK calls a butty)? Well, they call potato chips crisps!

If you ask for bacon, you'll end up with a slice of ham which is still tasty, but to order bacon bacon, you'll have to ask for streaky bacon! I ordered chicken wrapped in bacon and topped with cheese at a local pub. Needless to say, I was expecting thin bacon wrapped around my chicken. However, when I cut into the dish, it was a cut of HAM surrounding my chicken! It took me a bit to remember bacon isn't always bacon, bacon. Still, my chicken, bacon melt was totally delicious!

Here are some other words that translate differently, some are familiar and some, well, just aren't..
We'll do the American word first, followed by the British:

Breakfast = Brekkie
Sausage = Bangers
Sweets = Candy
French Fries = Chips
Potato Chips = Crisps
French Toast = Eggy Bread
Oatmeal = Porridge
Bacon = Rashers (Streaky Bacon)
Shrimp = Prawns
Ground Meat = Mince Meat
Jello-O = Jelly
Popsicle = Lolly
Cookie = Biscuit
Soda = Fizzy Drink
Cup of Tea = Cuppa
Bathroom = Loo (if you ask for a bathroom, you may be directed to a room with a bath and no toilet)
Television (TV) = Telly
Goodbye = Cheerio/ Cheers/ Goodbye

Are you sure we speak the same language? I'm going to need Rosetta Stone to come up with something for this! Is there an app for that? Interested in learning more language differences? Here are some links for more fun!

33 British Slang Words and Phrases
London Vocab
Americans try to pronounce British places

Driving

As most people know, the British drive on the left side of the road. At first, the sensation is quite weird and awkward. As an American, the biggest challenge to overcome was making right hand turns. My instinct, when turning right, was to enter the right lane. Luckily, I was able to remind myself to stay in the left lane, or didn't meet any oncoming cars if I accidentally went to right lane (I think this only happened once, maybe twice).

While there are some roundabouts in the states, I suspect they are not like the UK (or at least no one in the states follow any rules or guidelines). Before entering, look right! The cars to the right have the right-of-way. Some roundabouts have so many exits, it's difficult to navigate. I am now comfortable navigating roundabouts that have 4 TOTAL exits. Anything over 4, I'm a little hesitant as I don't often come across them, but I'm getting better and most everyone is friendly that they understand roundabouts are sometimes confusing.

Red lights also work differently that the states. The lights go from Green (Go, same as states), to Yellow (Caution, slow down, same as states), to Red (Stop, same as states), to Red and Yellow (Get Ready), to Green. Sometimes the Yellow light blinks which indicates you can go as long as there are no pedestrians crossing. Also, there are not many (if any) stop signs. There is either a triangle sign (similar to the Yield sigh) with the words Give Way or a painted white triangle on the pavement.

Some other rules to remember, as it is legal to turn right on red in the states, it is illegal to turn left on red. Bikes are to be ridden in the street; it's technically illegal to ride on sidewalks. It's okay to park in the middle of the road, other cars will figure how to get around you (okay, that's not really a rule, but it sure seems to be the thought process, especially on roads that are frequently congested).

Cars are of different makes and models. Some in the states can be found here and vice versa, BMW, Volkswagon, Audi, Ford, Honda, and Hyundai were among the few that I recognized once we arrived. But some others I may have heard before (like on Top Gear- one of my husband's favorite shows), but never seen such as Renault, Peugeot, Citroen, and Skoda to name a few.

There are other differences, and you can find out more below. I did a blog earlier that discussed some on driving and other modes of transport. You can find the link below along the UK Highway Code, and some other fun links.

Transportation
UK Highway Code
Roads in the UK
Roundabouts
The Magic Roundabout

Homes

Other than the obvious outlets being different, there are other differences, some which can be found in the states, but as I come from the south, some differences seemed unbelievable (the things we take for granted). Homes are typically smaller, there may not be any closets in the bedrooms, the light switches to bathrooms are on the outside of the room, and there are no outlets in the bathrooms as the British believe that electricity and water are NOT a good combination, rightly so.. Yes, some homes have the "Harry Potter" closet. The appliances are smaller and some homes only have a fridge and no freezer!! For all those out there (like myself) who had a mini heart attack because you LOVE Sam's Club, it's an adjustment. Luckily, we have a decent size fridge and freezer for our needs.

There is not central AC/Heat. In fact, it is uncommon for a British home to have AC (some parts of the US do not have AC either, but in the southern states, it's a MUST). In cooler temps, the home is heated by radiators (boilers) which is not uncommon in some parts of the states, However, the area I'm from it's a foreign concept. I had my doubts about its ability to warm the house, but I was mistaken. Yet, I think I deserve a small victory as I found myself pretty chilly sometimes in between the boiler kicking on.

Food

I've heard that British food is bland and that they use little seasonings, and I have had British food that is bland. They also don't use very many condiments. My friend's refrigerator went out and someone came to replace it with a new one. The man basically laughed at her for having some many condiments, saying Brits only have a few condiments opposed to American's need for condiments for everything. I'm not sure what exactly constitutes as a staple condiment to a Brit; probably ketchup and english mustard.

English mustard is a VERY acquired taste (as in I will NEVER consume it again)! Too much of it will leave your mouth with this overwhelming earthy, burning sensation that not lingers in your throat and mouth, but your nose! And the taste is hard to remove. So, if you're visiting and don't like strong flavors, avoid English mustard! Make sure it's American or French's at least. I told a native Brit my experience, and she wholeheartedly agreed with sentiments about the mustard. Her daughter disagreed and loved the stuff. To each his own.

I haven't ventured too far out of my comfort zone to talk in great deal about various kinds of British dishes. But I will say, the Brits serve peas (mushy peas) with just about everything. Don't ask me why. I do not know. However, if you're visiting, be prepared to eat some peas!

Farmer's Market. Enough said. Fresh fruits, veggies, and meats! AMAZING! And you can find one pretty much every weekend and even some during the week day. However, the supermarkets pride themselves on providing as much 100% British foods as possible which is pretty cool. The supermarket has some of the same brand name products found in American stores. I was surprised that Heinz products are more prevalent than Campbell's. There were all kinds of various Heinz condensed soup varieties, yet only about 3 different Campbell's (located on the top shelf with only a few of each kind). I also found it interesting that Kellogg's Frosted Flakes are not called Frosted Flakes, but Frosties. The UK has their own Frosted Flakes (not Kellogg's brand).

Yet, shopping at a British grocery, can be frustrating as they call some foods by different names. For instance, Something that you probably can't get many places in the U.S. is clotted cream. It's kind of like a smear for your scone. It's pretty delicious and a must to try. My favorite by far though is Watergull Apple Juice! It's amazing! Pretty much anything with Elderflower. Or Breckland Posh Pop (a fizzy drink).

Moving in general can be hard, but it's what you make of your experience that will affect your happiness. It's difficult being so far away from family, friends, and familiarity, but I could not be more blessed for the opportunity to experience life from another perspective. I greatly enjoy England. It's wonderful being able to drive a short distance and check out a farmer's market or see something that has been standing for centuries. I plan to do another blog on my favorite places and things in the near future. For now, I think I've taken up enough of your time, but I'll leave you with this last bit: